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Biryani: The Eternal Obsession – A Journey from Dhaka to Kolkata and Beyond
There are few things in life that can stir the soul the way a plate of biryani can. For me, it’s not just food; it’s an experience, a relationship, an obsession. The person who invented biryani deserves more than just a salute – they deserve a monument! And as for me? Well, I’m on a lifelong pilgrimage to find that perfect plate, with every grain of rice, every morsel of meat, and every fragrant whiff of spices aligned in perfect harmony.
Now, as much as I love biryani, I’ve come to realize that discussing it is like trying to define the word "love"—everyone has their own interpretation. One of the most heated debates I’ve encountered, though, is the one that pits the biryanis of Bangladesh and Kolkata against each other. To me, this comparison is almost absurd—it’s like comparing an egg to a mango. Sure, both have their merits, but to set them side by side and expect the same outcome is nothing short of a travesty.
Dhaka Biryani: A Legacy of Kacchi
I’ve had the privilege of sampling some stellar biryani in Dhaka, and let me tell you—there’s nothing quite like it. What sets Dhaka’s biryani apart, in my opinion, is its adherence to the Kacchi Biryani method. In this process, the meat is layered raw with par-cooked rice and cooked on dum. It’s a slow-burn love affair where the spices and meat mingle together in a delicate dance, yielding a dish that’s complex yet deeply satisfying. The first bite feels like an invitation to a royal feast—a true testament to how the centuries-old Persian culinary influences have been preserved and elevated in this city.
Kolkata Biryani: A Different Path
But then there’s Kolkata, my ex hometown, and the whole biryani saga shifts gears entirely. Unlike the Kacchi style, Kolkata follows the Pukki Biryani method, where the meat is pre-cooked and then layered with pre-cooked rice. The real magic happens during the dum process, where the flavors are infused with the stalk or yakhni of the meat. The result is a biryani that’s lighter, more aromatic, and has a distinctly different texture.
I’ve been lucky enough to taste some fantastic Kolkata biryani over the years. However, nothing prepared me for the disappointment I felt during my recent trip to the city. The biryani I sampled just wasn’t the same as the golden era biryani from the '70s, '80s, and early '90s. The spices weren’t as aromatic, the rice wasn’t as fragrant, and frankly, the magic just wasn’t there. It was as if the recipe had lost some of its soul, like a once-vibrant painting that had begun to fade with time.
The Search for the Original
But all was not lost. As a true biryani aficionado, I wasn’t about to give up the hunt that easily. I did what any self-respecting biryani lover would do: I set out to find the closest possible version of the original Kolkata Biryani. After much searching, I finally found it at Haaji Saheeb on Circus Avenue thanks to my friend's son and a budding lawyer, Tirtharaj. There it was—the 99% replica of the biryani I remembered from my childhood. The balance of flavors, the tenderness of the meat, the texture of the rice—it was almost like stepping back in time. I felt a wave of nostalgia flood over me, and for a moment, I was that young food lover again, tasting Kolkata’s best biryani with wide-eyed wonder.
The next best place? Zeeshaan. It’s a solid 70% to the original, but it’s a step in the right direction. I suppose when you’ve tasted the original, the variations can never quite measure up, but Zeeshaan’s biryani still holds its ground with its layers of flavor and aromatic rice.
The Myth of the ‘Aloo’
Now, let’s address the perennial myth that floats around Kolkata Biryani: the infamous aloo. People love to say that the potato was a royal indulgence introduced by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who allegedly traded the potato for meat due to scarcity. But let’s set the record straight once and for all—the truth is much simpler than that.
Potatoes didn’t originate in India; they were introduced by colonizers after plundering South America. Initially, potatoes were more expensive than meat and were a luxury item, imported for the rich. It wasn’t about replacing meat but rather about the potato being a prized commodity in its own right. So, when the potato was added to Kolkata Biryani, it wasn’t because it was a substitute for mutton; it was because the potato was something extraordinary in its own right. The potatoes, cooked in the spiced glory of the yakhni, were an indulgence—a side treat to complement the meat.
Mutton Chaamp: A Forgotten Glory
The real tragedy, however, isn’t the loss of the perfect Pukki Biryani—it’s the fall of the Mutton Chaamp (or Chnaamp), which once stood as the glorious centerpiece of Persian influenced gourmet. The chaamp was supposed to be the showstopper, the tender, juicy, spiced lamb morsels that could elevate one’s culinary experience to celestial heights. These days, however, finding a decent chaamp is like finding a unicorn in the wild. The quality has plummeted across the board, and what’s served in its place often doesn’t live up to the expectations set by its once-glorious predecessor.
Biryani: A Love That Lives On
Despite all the changes, all the disappointments, and all the new takes on this iconic dish, the love for biryani remains undying. There’s something magical about how this dish brings people together, whether it’s at a roadside stall or in the elegant dining rooms of the city’s oldest establishments. The biryani might have evolved over the years, but for those of us who truly understand it, the search for the perfect plate continues. And when you find it? Well, that’s when life feels just a little bit more complete.
So, as I get ready to indulge in my next biryani fix this weekend, I’ll do it with the knowledge that, while it may never be exactly as I remember it, the journey is worth every aromatic bite. Here’s to the eternal quest for the perfect biryani—may it always be just around the corner, waiting to surprise and delight us once again.
Happy biryani-ing, everyone!
P.S : Photos sourced from the internet. I don't own copyright. Using for non-commercial content.
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